For someone like me who grew up with a sea image more akin to Cape Town's sun-kissed beaches than Britain's greyer coastline, Cornwall can be a revelation – and Portscatho is the reason why.
I remember my first experiences of the Cornish coast being a letdown. Cromer, with its beige sand sloping into water almost identical in colour to the beach, seemed like an inconsequential stretch of land meeting sea. I had been seduced by images of wild beaches and oceanic drama from afar but these British seaside trips felt stiflingly tame.
It was several years later, after a soul-destroying job, that I took a week off and boarded a train to Cornwall on my own. Walking the Cornish coastal path in autumn with nothing more than two T-shirts, shorts, and a raincoat for company was an epiphany moment for me – a place where 'all that' happens when you're least expecting it.
The first village I stumbled upon was St Ives. My journey wasn't without companions though - on the second day of my trek along the coastal path, an Iranian philosophy student met at local cafe joined me. We talked Hegel and enjoyed the blackberries bursting from the verges as our conversation ebbed and flowed in single file down the cliffs.
Later, coming round the headland of the Roseland peninsula while hulkingly pregnant, I discovered Portscatho – a Georgian village that seemed to emerge from nowhere like an island jewel.
Portscatho has its own unique magic and for someone like me who once thought Britain's seaside was too tame, this tiny village is a revelation. It may not have it all but sometimes what redeems it in my eyes is the preference I have for winter over summer – especially in autumn when the sea takes on a darker rageful tone but also has an unmistakable blue purity that could be mistaken for Mediterranean waters.
The best part of visiting Portscatho, however, is at night. Whether it's New Year or simply any autumn evening, there's something deeply magical about arriving here with the clocks changed and turning down the steep road to see the Plume – a pub perched dramatically over the bay – beckoning towards the sea.
How I love being in Portscatho when everyone else is inside watching telly but you can still find yourself on the beach at 5pm under the clear night sky, feeling like you're at the very edge of the world.
I remember my first experiences of the Cornish coast being a letdown. Cromer, with its beige sand sloping into water almost identical in colour to the beach, seemed like an inconsequential stretch of land meeting sea. I had been seduced by images of wild beaches and oceanic drama from afar but these British seaside trips felt stiflingly tame.
It was several years later, after a soul-destroying job, that I took a week off and boarded a train to Cornwall on my own. Walking the Cornish coastal path in autumn with nothing more than two T-shirts, shorts, and a raincoat for company was an epiphany moment for me – a place where 'all that' happens when you're least expecting it.
The first village I stumbled upon was St Ives. My journey wasn't without companions though - on the second day of my trek along the coastal path, an Iranian philosophy student met at local cafe joined me. We talked Hegel and enjoyed the blackberries bursting from the verges as our conversation ebbed and flowed in single file down the cliffs.
Later, coming round the headland of the Roseland peninsula while hulkingly pregnant, I discovered Portscatho – a Georgian village that seemed to emerge from nowhere like an island jewel.
Portscatho has its own unique magic and for someone like me who once thought Britain's seaside was too tame, this tiny village is a revelation. It may not have it all but sometimes what redeems it in my eyes is the preference I have for winter over summer – especially in autumn when the sea takes on a darker rageful tone but also has an unmistakable blue purity that could be mistaken for Mediterranean waters.
The best part of visiting Portscatho, however, is at night. Whether it's New Year or simply any autumn evening, there's something deeply magical about arriving here with the clocks changed and turning down the steep road to see the Plume – a pub perched dramatically over the bay – beckoning towards the sea.
How I love being in Portscatho when everyone else is inside watching telly but you can still find yourself on the beach at 5pm under the clear night sky, feeling like you're at the very edge of the world.