The humble tote has been a stalwart of fashion's utilitarian crowd, but its reign appears to be waning. Instead, a new breed of "good intentions" bags is rising to prominence, with brands like John Lewis, Marks & Spencer, and Pacific Tote Company leading the charge. These bags are not about glamour or status; they're about substance.
The key characteristic of these bags is their ability to hold a lot – often too much for some people's tastes. But that's by design. They're "oversized but not structured," according to Carrie Cooper, John Lewis's senior footwear and accessories designer, which means you can fit your packed lunch, flask, book, and even gym kit in one convenient container.
But what makes these bags so appealing? For semiotician Bridget Dalton, the answer lies in their practicality. "Carrying a lot of stuff around is a historically working-class requirement," she explains. "So, therefore, you have the idea of a good intention as a peasant morality, which is about self-sustaining, self-reliance, but also a rejection of the frivolous."
In contrast to the tiny handbags that dominated fashion in recent years, these bags are all about being able to do more with less. They're a rejection of the notion that luxury must come at the expense of practicality.
This shift is not just about functionality; it's also about status. According to Dalton, a capacious bag used to be seen as déclassé, lower-class. Now, carrying one is a statement that says your identity is not contingent upon other people doing stuff for you.
The bags themselves are often simple and understated, but the message they convey is anything but subtle. As Gramicci's co-founder Duffy Culligan puts it, these bags are "the co-conspirator of an unplanned adventure." They're a symbol of empowerment, of being able to take care of yourself without needing anyone else to do so.
As we bid farewell to the flimsy promotional bags that cluttered our hallways and streets just a few years ago, it's clear that the era of the tote is coming to an end. But the "good intentions" bag is here to stay – and it's going to change the way we think about fashion, status, and practicality forever.
The key characteristic of these bags is their ability to hold a lot – often too much for some people's tastes. But that's by design. They're "oversized but not structured," according to Carrie Cooper, John Lewis's senior footwear and accessories designer, which means you can fit your packed lunch, flask, book, and even gym kit in one convenient container.
But what makes these bags so appealing? For semiotician Bridget Dalton, the answer lies in their practicality. "Carrying a lot of stuff around is a historically working-class requirement," she explains. "So, therefore, you have the idea of a good intention as a peasant morality, which is about self-sustaining, self-reliance, but also a rejection of the frivolous."
In contrast to the tiny handbags that dominated fashion in recent years, these bags are all about being able to do more with less. They're a rejection of the notion that luxury must come at the expense of practicality.
This shift is not just about functionality; it's also about status. According to Dalton, a capacious bag used to be seen as déclassé, lower-class. Now, carrying one is a statement that says your identity is not contingent upon other people doing stuff for you.
The bags themselves are often simple and understated, but the message they convey is anything but subtle. As Gramicci's co-founder Duffy Culligan puts it, these bags are "the co-conspirator of an unplanned adventure." They're a symbol of empowerment, of being able to take care of yourself without needing anyone else to do so.
As we bid farewell to the flimsy promotional bags that cluttered our hallways and streets just a few years ago, it's clear that the era of the tote is coming to an end. But the "good intentions" bag is here to stay – and it's going to change the way we think about fashion, status, and practicality forever.