India's Iconic Bandhgala Jacket Under Fire: Is Colonial Legacy to Blame?
The bandhgala jacket, a staple of Indian Railways formal wear for over a century, has found itself at the center of a heated debate. The garment, renowned for its high collar and tailored fit, is now being targeted by the government's efforts to eradicate what it deems colonial hangovers from India's culture.
Indian Railways Minister Ashwini Vaishnaw recently declared that the bandhgala would be removed as part of the formal uniform, citing the need to rid Indian society of a "colonial mindset". However, proponents of the jacket argue that this is an affront to the garment's rich history and cultural significance.
For Raghavendra Rathore, an Indian menswear designer and descendant of the royal family of Jodhpur in Rajasthan, where the bandhgala originated, the jacket represents a distinctly Indian expression of royal tailoring. The design evolved over four centuries, influenced by Mughal courts and Rajasthani kingdoms before being adopted by the British as part of their military uniform.
Rathore disputes the notion that the bandhgala is a colonial relic, arguing that its evolution was shaped by both Indian and foreign influences. While it's true that certain elements, such as trims and tailoring, were borrowed from British uniforms, Rathore insists that the jacket itself remained quintessentially Indian.
As part of India's struggle to free itself from the legacy of British colonial rule, which ended in 1947, many traditional garments have been reclaimed as nationalistic symbols. The bandhgala, once a staple of European-style attire, has become an iconic representation of India's rich cultural heritage.
The decision to remove the bandhgala from the Indian Railways uniform is likely to spark debate among fashion enthusiasts and cultural purists alike. With Rathore expressing concern that replacing it with another garment would result in a loss of authenticity, one can't help but wonder what other cherished symbols of India's past will be next on the chopping block.
As the government continues its push to eradicate colonial legacies from Indian society, it remains to be seen how the bandhgala jacket will fare. Will it continue to be celebrated as an integral part of India's cultural identity or will it succumb to the pressure to conform to a more "western" aesthetic? Only time will tell.
The bandhgala jacket, a staple of Indian Railways formal wear for over a century, has found itself at the center of a heated debate. The garment, renowned for its high collar and tailored fit, is now being targeted by the government's efforts to eradicate what it deems colonial hangovers from India's culture.
Indian Railways Minister Ashwini Vaishnaw recently declared that the bandhgala would be removed as part of the formal uniform, citing the need to rid Indian society of a "colonial mindset". However, proponents of the jacket argue that this is an affront to the garment's rich history and cultural significance.
For Raghavendra Rathore, an Indian menswear designer and descendant of the royal family of Jodhpur in Rajasthan, where the bandhgala originated, the jacket represents a distinctly Indian expression of royal tailoring. The design evolved over four centuries, influenced by Mughal courts and Rajasthani kingdoms before being adopted by the British as part of their military uniform.
Rathore disputes the notion that the bandhgala is a colonial relic, arguing that its evolution was shaped by both Indian and foreign influences. While it's true that certain elements, such as trims and tailoring, were borrowed from British uniforms, Rathore insists that the jacket itself remained quintessentially Indian.
As part of India's struggle to free itself from the legacy of British colonial rule, which ended in 1947, many traditional garments have been reclaimed as nationalistic symbols. The bandhgala, once a staple of European-style attire, has become an iconic representation of India's rich cultural heritage.
The decision to remove the bandhgala from the Indian Railways uniform is likely to spark debate among fashion enthusiasts and cultural purists alike. With Rathore expressing concern that replacing it with another garment would result in a loss of authenticity, one can't help but wonder what other cherished symbols of India's past will be next on the chopping block.
As the government continues its push to eradicate colonial legacies from Indian society, it remains to be seen how the bandhgala jacket will fare. Will it continue to be celebrated as an integral part of India's cultural identity or will it succumb to the pressure to conform to a more "western" aesthetic? Only time will tell.