In the hush of winter's silence, I find myself enveloped by the crunch of snow underfoot. The trail stretches out before me like a silver snake, winding its way through forests of larch and pine, their branches etched against the pale blue sky like delicate pen and ink drawings. Every step reveals a new vista – the sweep of crags and peaks in the distance, a tapestry of white and grey and cream.
I've wandered into this hidden valley, tucked away in Switzerland's Lower Engadine, with the encouragement of my Swiss friend Kaspar. He warned me that few tourists venture here, and I'm grateful for the solitude. The Engadine National Park, though closed to visitors during the winter months, still beckons – its 170 square kilometers a haven for 36 species of mammals and over 100 species of birds.
As I make my way along the well-marked Winter-Wanderwege trails, I begin to appreciate the 'slow' tourism that pervades this corner of Switzerland. Small family-run hotels, guided walks, artisanal food producers – it's all about reconnecting with nature. In winter, that means hiking, snow-shoeing, sledging, horse-drawn cart rides, bird-watching, and cross-country skiing.
I base myself in Scuol, a charming village at the end of the railway line, where I can easily access a network of trails that crisscross the valley. The routes are marked on free maps available from the tourist office or downloaded to your phone, making them easy to follow. I decide to tackle the Engadine Way, a 77km route that winds its way through the valley – perfect for day hikes.
Each morning, I take a bus or train up or down the valley and follow one of the routes to the next stop, then head back home on foot. My daily walks vary in length from five to 16 kilometers. The villages along the way offer surprises: tiny churches adorned with sgraffito; French patisseries; and beautifully decorated houses that seem frozen in time.
But it's the walks into the unpeopled mountains that leave me breathless – to frozen lakes, deserted hamlets, or remote bistros serving hot chocolate and dumplings. The silence is almost palpable, a physical presence that surrounds me as I walk through the snow. It clears my mind like no other landscape, absorbing any nagging concerns, leaving me calm and collected.
As I explore this winter wonderland, I'm drawn to the majestic beauty of the Bernina Express, which takes me up to the frozen Lago Bianco on a particularly overcast day. I could have done more – guided snow-shoeing tours, tobogganing trips, visits to knife-making workshops or cheese farms – but for now, Scuol's gentle charm has won me over.
This town is a gem, hidden away from the crowds that flock to Klosters and St Moritz. The youth hostel, family-run guest houses, and hotel Arnica all offer welcome respite after a day on the trails. And then there's the Scuol Palace hotel, where I enjoyed delicious meals on its sunlit terrace and creamy hot chocolates in its bar.
For those seeking a tranquil retreat from the winter chaos, Scuol is an oasis – a convenient and friendly town nestled among glittering snow-carpeted trails.
I've wandered into this hidden valley, tucked away in Switzerland's Lower Engadine, with the encouragement of my Swiss friend Kaspar. He warned me that few tourists venture here, and I'm grateful for the solitude. The Engadine National Park, though closed to visitors during the winter months, still beckons – its 170 square kilometers a haven for 36 species of mammals and over 100 species of birds.
As I make my way along the well-marked Winter-Wanderwege trails, I begin to appreciate the 'slow' tourism that pervades this corner of Switzerland. Small family-run hotels, guided walks, artisanal food producers – it's all about reconnecting with nature. In winter, that means hiking, snow-shoeing, sledging, horse-drawn cart rides, bird-watching, and cross-country skiing.
I base myself in Scuol, a charming village at the end of the railway line, where I can easily access a network of trails that crisscross the valley. The routes are marked on free maps available from the tourist office or downloaded to your phone, making them easy to follow. I decide to tackle the Engadine Way, a 77km route that winds its way through the valley – perfect for day hikes.
Each morning, I take a bus or train up or down the valley and follow one of the routes to the next stop, then head back home on foot. My daily walks vary in length from five to 16 kilometers. The villages along the way offer surprises: tiny churches adorned with sgraffito; French patisseries; and beautifully decorated houses that seem frozen in time.
But it's the walks into the unpeopled mountains that leave me breathless – to frozen lakes, deserted hamlets, or remote bistros serving hot chocolate and dumplings. The silence is almost palpable, a physical presence that surrounds me as I walk through the snow. It clears my mind like no other landscape, absorbing any nagging concerns, leaving me calm and collected.
As I explore this winter wonderland, I'm drawn to the majestic beauty of the Bernina Express, which takes me up to the frozen Lago Bianco on a particularly overcast day. I could have done more – guided snow-shoeing tours, tobogganing trips, visits to knife-making workshops or cheese farms – but for now, Scuol's gentle charm has won me over.
This town is a gem, hidden away from the crowds that flock to Klosters and St Moritz. The youth hostel, family-run guest houses, and hotel Arnica all offer welcome respite after a day on the trails. And then there's the Scuol Palace hotel, where I enjoyed delicious meals on its sunlit terrace and creamy hot chocolates in its bar.
For those seeking a tranquil retreat from the winter chaos, Scuol is an oasis – a convenient and friendly town nestled among glittering snow-carpeted trails.