As I step onto the frozen path, the silence envelops me like a blanket. Every crunch of snow underfoot is magnified in this stillness, as if the forest itself is listening to my footsteps. The larch and pine trees tower above me, their branches etched in frosty glitter. In the distance, the crags and peaks rise like giants, an icily beautiful panorama that stretches for miles.
I've come to the Lower Engadine, a hidden valley in remote south-east Switzerland, seeking solitude and peace. My friend Kaspar recommended this winter wonderland after I mentioned my desire to escape the crowds. Over two weeks, I'll be exploring this fairytale landscape alone, following well-marked trails that wind through forests, past frozen lakes, and into secluded hamlets.
The valley is a haven for wildlife, with 36 species of mammals and over 100 species of birds calling it home. Despite being protected as Switzerland's only national park, visitors can still spot some of its rare creatures on the well-marked winter trails. The Engadine's inhabitants live in harmony with nature, speaking Romansh and following a traditional way of life that has barely changed.
As I make my way through the valley, I'm struck by the beauty of the tiny villages. Each one is a treasure trove of colour and charm, with houses adorned in sgraffito – a technique used to decorate walls with intricate designs. In Susch, I stumbled upon an old monastery converted into an art gallery dedicated to female artists, while its chic bistro served me a delicious mountain-herb tea.
My day hikes take me through forests where deer tracks run ahead of me, winding past waterfalls and snow-capped pinnacles. The silence is almost palpable, allowing me to hear every flurry of falling snow and the calls of birds in the crisp air. After each hike, I return feeling mentally refreshed and emotionally purged.
When I need a break from walking, I visit the Tarasp Castle with its contemporary art collection or watch a film in the tiny cinema at the Lavin railway station. The abandoned bath houses and springs of Nairs now serve as a cultural centre, while the ice sculpture park at Sur En is a breathtaking winter wonderland.
As I explore this winter wonderland, I discover that Scuol – the largest village in the valley – is without any hotel chains. Instead, it boasts an immaculate youth hostel and family-run guest houses. I indulge in delicious meals on its sunlit terrace or enjoy creamy hot chocolates in the bar of the Scuol Palace hotel, once frequented by royalty and luminaries.
This quiet, sleepy town offers a tranquil retreat for weary limbs after a day in the Engadine's wintry wonderland. It's a place where I can walk without being disturbed, where the only sound is the crunch of snow underfoot and the silence allows me to hear every flurry of falling snow.
I've come to the Lower Engadine, a hidden valley in remote south-east Switzerland, seeking solitude and peace. My friend Kaspar recommended this winter wonderland after I mentioned my desire to escape the crowds. Over two weeks, I'll be exploring this fairytale landscape alone, following well-marked trails that wind through forests, past frozen lakes, and into secluded hamlets.
The valley is a haven for wildlife, with 36 species of mammals and over 100 species of birds calling it home. Despite being protected as Switzerland's only national park, visitors can still spot some of its rare creatures on the well-marked winter trails. The Engadine's inhabitants live in harmony with nature, speaking Romansh and following a traditional way of life that has barely changed.
As I make my way through the valley, I'm struck by the beauty of the tiny villages. Each one is a treasure trove of colour and charm, with houses adorned in sgraffito – a technique used to decorate walls with intricate designs. In Susch, I stumbled upon an old monastery converted into an art gallery dedicated to female artists, while its chic bistro served me a delicious mountain-herb tea.
My day hikes take me through forests where deer tracks run ahead of me, winding past waterfalls and snow-capped pinnacles. The silence is almost palpable, allowing me to hear every flurry of falling snow and the calls of birds in the crisp air. After each hike, I return feeling mentally refreshed and emotionally purged.
When I need a break from walking, I visit the Tarasp Castle with its contemporary art collection or watch a film in the tiny cinema at the Lavin railway station. The abandoned bath houses and springs of Nairs now serve as a cultural centre, while the ice sculpture park at Sur En is a breathtaking winter wonderland.
As I explore this winter wonderland, I discover that Scuol – the largest village in the valley – is without any hotel chains. Instead, it boasts an immaculate youth hostel and family-run guest houses. I indulge in delicious meals on its sunlit terrace or enjoy creamy hot chocolates in the bar of the Scuol Palace hotel, once frequented by royalty and luminaries.
This quiet, sleepy town offers a tranquil retreat for weary limbs after a day in the Engadine's wintry wonderland. It's a place where I can walk without being disturbed, where the only sound is the crunch of snow underfoot and the silence allows me to hear every flurry of falling snow.